4AnimalCare.org
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| --- Be sure you're caring properly for your bird --- No myths allowed |
| Stay a while - scroll down and explore Sleep requirements -- Cage needs -- Feeding & Nutrition Poop! How to read those droppings Mating Behavior, Egg Laying Converting from seed to pellets Biting and Screaming Bird Why you should NOT buy pet store products for health ** and a lot more ** |
Without you there would be no them
Birds
| Parrot Nutrition It surprises a lot of owners to learn that most birds these days should have a predominantly pelleted diet. Pellets are constantly updated to keep with the current research and science with regard to ideal nutrition for birds. Today’s formulas are better than ever. It’s still necessary to supplement this diet with fresh foods every day and to decrease seed feeding until it doesn’t amount to more than about 15-20% of the overall diet. Sunflower seeds shouldn’t be allowed at all. The only reason they’re in all those seed mixes is because they’re cheap filler and birds tend to love them. Children love sugar and fats too, but we don’t let them eat it all day, every day, right? We have to be even stricter with our birds because their systems are more susceptible to nutritional problems like liver disease, tumors and a lot more. ********** So, what to feed? *********** Whole grains, dark leafy vegetables, fruits and legumes. Include the colors orange, yellow , green, plus reds too! Think sweet potatoes/yams, squash, melons, oranges, peas, chard, beets and others. Brown rice, quinoa, whole wheat couscous and natural, whole grain pastas are great choices. Limit fats, especially the kind from animals. Good fats are most plant fats like soy, olive and canola oils. No fried anything Don’t hesitate to give your companion a few sips of all natural orange juice or carrot juice. It’s not a good idea to put it in their regular water dish, rather, provide a separate dish for it and don’t leave it for more than an hour or two at most. You don’t want to chance introducing a bacterial infection to your bird while trying to keep them healthy. -- For recipes click here -- |
| Pet Store Health Products Just in case you’re wondering about those pet store products Vitamins or medicines to add to a bird’s water? When it comes to parrots (any bird with a hooked bill) --Never use them – These products can put your bird off their water, leading to dehydration and multiple associated health risks. As for the antibiotics, they don’t work, have not been known to work for many years (which is why they’re available over the counter) and they aren’t about to start working anytime in the future. What they will do, however, is kill the good bacteria in your bird’s system. The bacteria that supports a healthy immune system. They may also strengthen the bad bacteria in your bird as bacteria develop resistance very quickly When your bird really needs an antibiotic it may be difficult to find one that works. Using these products can hurt your bird not only immediately, but most certainly in the long run. |
| Birds should be weighed once a week. This way, when you notice weight loss, it should be in time to head off a very serious problem. Otherwise, by the time you can see that your bird has lost weight, the problem has likely been going on for some time. A bird needs to be weighed on a gram scale. Ounces won’t do it. By the time an ounce scale registers the loss of an ounce, it’s more than 28 grams! That’s significant for a bird. The average weight for a Grey Cheeked parakeet is 45-60 grams; a red rumped is 60 grams and Quaker or Monk = 90 to 150 grams. Find out more on various birds’ average weights here: AvianWeb Weights |
| Cages - a frequent recommendation is to get the biggest you can afford. That doesn't mean putting a macaw in a cockatiel cage because it's all your budget allows If you cannot afford the biggest cage for the size bird you want to adopt, then wait! Birds need a cage that they can turn around in with their wings outstretched and not touching any of the sides, top or bottom. A cage needs at least three different kinds of perches: Natural hard wood like Manzanita, natural soft wood like pine and a rope perch. You really should also have a grooming perch like calcium, Manu, concrete or cement, although a cuttle fish bone and mineral block in the cage are acceptable instead. I have grooming perches, cuttle bone and mineral block for each bird. |
| Yes, bird beaks also molt and you might see some layers coming off, like this |
Birds need regular challenges, input and interaction. Be sure toys are safe for a human toddler and double check for bird safety. No bean-bag toys or you'll have the stuffing everywhere! No fluid filled toys like teething rings And no matter how sure you are about the toy safety, always check them to see how they're holding up |
| This is a "baby wing trim " - the bird will still be able to fly, but not have a lot of lift or distance. It's a good idea for a bird to have confidence This is the next stage of wing trimming for the next big molt. It reduces more lift and distance This is the full wing trim. The bird shouldn't get any real lift or distance, but is able to gently glide to the floor or nearby surface. |
Wing Trimming shows you care. If a bird is out of cage a lot, which is good, there's no forewarning when someone else might open a window or door. I can't begin to count the number of times I've heard that "It's been years and years and nothing has ever happened". All it takes is once and your bird can be gone forever |
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| Birds need toys that they can shred and destroy. Safe wood on safe materials are well worth the investment. Toys are necessities |
| All Birds Poop - what should it look like? All bird droppings are made up of three parts: Faeces (feces), the solid, central part which can vary in color depending on the food the bird eats. Urates, the next layer of the ring, which can be cloudy- clear or with shades of white, yellows and greens, again depending on the foods eaten. Urine is the clear liquid, usually outer layer of the ring. Depending on the amount of fruits and fluids the bird eats/drinks, this can be a significant part of the dropping. Human companions to birds need to learn what’s normal for their bird. When the bird is healthy, acting fine and eating a well balanced diet, there’s a general look to the droppings that may vary depending on the time of day, but are usually similar looking. If a bird eats beets one day, the droppings may look frighteningly reddish. Sometimes when the bird eats more dark leafy greens (or blueberries), the droppings can assume a nearly black hue. When a bird is on a largely seed diet, the feces may be any shade of bright green; pelleted diets without added food colorings would produce a dull, brownish-green. If the bird is eating colored pellets, the droppings may reflect what colors are most often chosen. Constipation or pasting of feces at the vent area may be symptoms of egg binding. Many owners discover that their ‘male’ is actually a female when this happens, sometimes after many years and even some vet visits over that time. Other causes of what is perceived as constipation is ingestion of a foreign object (including grit if it’s made available), toxins or other disease. If caught very early you might try administering a tiny drop of olive oil to the side of the beak so the bird ingests it; setting the bird in a shallow, warm ‘bath’ of plain water while gently massaging the vent area may also prompt a movement – or passage of an egg, but since this is a serious symptom and can become life threatening in a very short time, I wouldn’t wait or try home remedies. Diarrhea is often actually Polyuria. True diarrhea is when the feces part of the droppings are not well formed and liquidy. Diarrhea is usually caused by a disease. Polyuria is when there’s more than usual amounts of the urine and urates (the feces are still well formed). Polyuria may be caused by viral infections, allergies to foods or even a tumor somewhere. There are just so many possible causes that a vet visit is essential in order to catch things early. ‘Bubbly’ droppings are also considered abnormal. Some bacteria produce a gas and this is what may be causing the bubbles. One day of abnormal droppings (usually appearing too loose or liquid) is not typically an emergency. As long as the bird is still eating, drinking and acting normally, there’ s no change in vocalizations, there is no feather fluffing (looking bigger), staying at the bottom of the cage or excessive sleeping - sometimes a change in droppings is little more than something that will last a few hours and be fine. If there’s ever red in the droppings and they have no dietary explanation, blood must be suspected and it’s prudent to make an appointment with an avian vet. If droppings remain abnormal more than 24 hours, please see a vet or have a mobile vet visit your home. It’ s far better to have a visit and exam find nothing wrong, than to miss something that with early treatment may insure the bird lives. |
| Eggs ? This is not good Egg laying is something that every female bird can do without benefit of male birds. Of course eggs laid without a male to mate with are not fertile and will not hatch. Laying, in birds other than chickens and other food source poultry, is not healthy and shouldn’t be ignored. All steps you can take to stop this behavior should be taken and right away. Make sure you provide fresh cuttlebone to this bird at all times to help maintain calcium in their over- stressed body. Other good sources of calcium are in fresh foods such as kale, broccoli, chard tops, spinach and collard greens. You might want to increase her nighttime hours to 13 sleep instead of 12+12. Another option is to move things around inside the cage. Change out her toys, switch perches, rearrange feeding and water cups - make it look 'new' to her. Even moving the actual location a little bit can help. Other precautions are to not pet her under her wings or touch consistently from the mid-back down (this can trigger egg laying). No feeding her from your mouth, which is just a good idea anyway since we have far too much bacteria there to be safe for a bird. No feeding soft foods from your fingers which may be perceived as regurgitation, another mating behavior. Leaving the eggs in with your bird may help curb the behavior as well. If you notice any cracks or breaks, the egg must be removed. I prefer to replace them with fake eggs of a similar size and shape, available at many craft stores. Just be sure they are bird safe - no flaking paint for example. Some cockatiels, parakeets and other smaller birds will accept regular marbles as their eggs. If egg laying continues or becomes chronic, you must consult with an avian vet or other vet who is well experienced with birds. Chances of severe health complications exist in over-layers. Here are some more links to help stop egg laying T. Lightfoot, DVM Cockatiel Egg Laying |
| Out of Cage Time Your bird needs to leave their cage just like you need to leave your bedroom or house. The average bird owner has their parrot out of cage for at least 4 hours every day No less than 2 hours a day is recommended Our birds are out of cage for 7 hours every day Finches, canaries and some other smaller species that are in nearly constant motion would be the exceptions |
| Rev. Dr. S. August Abbott - Certified Avian Specialist - -Pet Industry Joint Advisory Council member- -Int. Assoc. of Animal Behavior Consultants - |
This gives you an idea of how to use PVC pipe and
connectors to make your own play gyms and perches.
I use natural, safe wood limbs secured into the pvc so the
birds have a good grip. PVC by itself can be slippery. A
slippery or unsure perch can cause stress in any bird
which may increase biting and screaming - the bird's only
tools to communicate
Our happy blue and gold macaw is enjoying one of her
regular showers in a protected outdoor area.
Temperatures should be 70 degrees (21 C) or higher for
an outdoor shower.
Otherwise, indoor bathing is the order of the day
connectors to make your own play gyms and perches.
I use natural, safe wood limbs secured into the pvc so the
birds have a good grip. PVC by itself can be slippery. A
slippery or unsure perch can cause stress in any bird
which may increase biting and screaming - the bird's only
tools to communicate
Our happy blue and gold macaw is enjoying one of her
regular showers in a protected outdoor area.
Temperatures should be 70 degrees (21 C) or higher for
an outdoor shower.
Otherwise, indoor bathing is the order of the day
| For caged birds who chew, it is not recommended these days to put a dowel in their habitat. Much of today’s lumber has been treated with chemicals and unless you can know for sure that it’s untreated wood, your bird could slowly poison itself by nibbling away at this dowel. Better choices are three different perches: 1. A rope perch available through many pet supply stores, appropriate for the bird you have. Be sure to keep the perch trimmed of frayed rope (and discard it when it’s too frayed) and always make sure it’s clean. Rope perches are easy to rinse off in a sink, bathtub, with a garden hose or even on the gentle cycle of a wash (no fabric softener in the rinse please). A rope perch is often chosen by the bird to sleep on. 2. A soft wood perch, like pine or many fruit trees is another necessity. Never avocado branches or Oleander See here for more safe and unsafe woods 3. A grooming perch, usually made from manu (a calcium/clay type material) or even some of the concrete perches available are good choices. You still must provide a cuttlebone for your bird and scrape it regularly to be sure it’s got a clean, fresh surface available. Another good perch and very popular is manzanita wood. This would be considered a medium-hard perch, but they come in such natural shapes with great variations from one end to another that they are just plain good exercise for those feet and legs! The sizes should vary so that one allows the foot to wrap around just ¼ of the way; another should allow the foot to wrap around about ½ way and the third perch should fit the foot around ¾ of it. The rope perch should probably be the one that allows a ½ way around grip. |
For a more detailed list of safe and not safe plants and perches, click here |
| "She was not what you would call refined. She was not what you would call unrefined. She was the sort of person who kept a parrot" (Mark Twain, 'Following the Equator') |
Birds larger than a cockatiel and
children under 10-12 years old are
not a good mix.
Birds can perceive the slightest
changes in expressions, pupil
dilation and children's movements
are not smooth and sure which
frightens a bird.
Bites with beaks larger than a
cockatiel's on little fingers can be
serious and are best avoided to
begin with.
children under 10-12 years old are
not a good mix.
Birds can perceive the slightest
changes in expressions, pupil
dilation and children's movements
are not smooth and sure which
frightens a bird.
Bites with beaks larger than a
cockatiel's on little fingers can be
serious and are best avoided to
begin with.
| Baby Food for Baby Parrots: (Human) baby rice cereal mixed as directed Add (also from the baby food aisle) ½ to 1 teaspoon each of: Applesauce Sweet potatoes/yams Peas or Green beans This can be fed as a supplement or in an emergency, but should not be fed as their only baby food. Please choose a professional formula |
| Need a Vet ? vet-lookup hospital directory International List |
| Hand feeding guideline - scroll down |
Sleep is vital for overall health in our birds.
Keeping with the bird's natural rhythm is best. That
means 12 hours of quiet, dark nighttime and 12 hours
of daylight and activity.
We provide separate sleep cages as seen here,
with just the basics: A soft perch, a small amount of
food, full, clean water and a 'snuggly'. A piece of
material or soft toy for the bird to have next to them,
like a flock mate would provide that security in the wild.
Cover all except about 1/4 of the front door so the bird
can see out and feel reassured that there's no danger.
Keeping with the bird's natural rhythm is best. That
means 12 hours of quiet, dark nighttime and 12 hours
of daylight and activity.
We provide separate sleep cages as seen here,
with just the basics: A soft perch, a small amount of
food, full, clean water and a 'snuggly'. A piece of
material or soft toy for the bird to have next to them,
like a flock mate would provide that security in the wild.
Cover all except about 1/4 of the front door so the bird
can see out and feel reassured that there's no danger.
During seasons with longer night hours, or with females that are egg laying,
increasing the nighttime hours to 13 or 14 is acceptable.
So if you generally wake up at 7 a.m., putting the bird to bed at 7 p.m. is good.
To get 14 hours, I suggest putting to bed around 6 p.m. and waking at 8 a.m.
increasing the nighttime hours to 13 or 14 is acceptable.
So if you generally wake up at 7 a.m., putting the bird to bed at 7 p.m. is good.
To get 14 hours, I suggest putting to bed around 6 p.m. and waking at 8 a.m.
Pulling a chick for hand feeding should be done only about 2 weeks
before they’ll wean (which means you only have to provide about 2-3
feedings a day).
Weaning ages vary depending on the type of bird.
Carefully place the baby (chick) on a towel and gently cup your hand around
the body for support.
You can use an eyedropper or small syringe available at all bird shops and
many pet stores specifically for this task. As you approach the baby with the
food, they will often instinctively open their mouths for feeding - their crop is
going to be to their right side of the throat, so angle the dropper/syringe to be
sure it goes there.
As the instrument touches the inside of their mouth, they will typically start
pumping at it (they are doing their part to help you through this), slowly, but
steadily dispense the formula.
When the formula is emptied, take a look at the crop. It’s going to look like a
pouch at their right side of the throat area. It’s supposed to bulge.
Depending on how much the eyedropper or syringe holds and the type of bird
(and the age), you may have to offer another feeding right away. If the bird
has a full crop, both of you will know it and the bird won’t be so anxious to
accept the device.
It usually doesn’t take too long before you become comfortable with feedings
and they can be done relatively quickly; however, I prefer to not go too fast and
enjoy the bonding. This isn’t to say make it such a slow process that the chick
becomes stressed or overly anxious, but not treating it like an assembly line
job (to just get it over with) may be nicer for both of you.
As the chick gets older and begins eating a bit on their own, many owners like
to supplement their diet with spoon feedings of a thicker mix of the formula. At
first, this means holding the spoon to their beaks much in the same way as the
dropper or syringe was and letting the mixture just fall into their mouths. It’s
messy for sure, but pretty soon they’ll start bending their head down to take
the mixture off the spoon themselves.
It’s important to not offer formula for too long since it’s high in fat and can
cause health problems when fed to weaned birds. In sick, older and special
needs birds there are exceptions. It’s something that needs to at least be
discussed with an avian professional.
before they’ll wean (which means you only have to provide about 2-3
feedings a day).
Weaning ages vary depending on the type of bird.
Carefully place the baby (chick) on a towel and gently cup your hand around
the body for support.
You can use an eyedropper or small syringe available at all bird shops and
many pet stores specifically for this task. As you approach the baby with the
food, they will often instinctively open their mouths for feeding - their crop is
going to be to their right side of the throat, so angle the dropper/syringe to be
sure it goes there.
As the instrument touches the inside of their mouth, they will typically start
pumping at it (they are doing their part to help you through this), slowly, but
steadily dispense the formula.
When the formula is emptied, take a look at the crop. It’s going to look like a
pouch at their right side of the throat area. It’s supposed to bulge.
Depending on how much the eyedropper or syringe holds and the type of bird
(and the age), you may have to offer another feeding right away. If the bird
has a full crop, both of you will know it and the bird won’t be so anxious to
accept the device.
It usually doesn’t take too long before you become comfortable with feedings
and they can be done relatively quickly; however, I prefer to not go too fast and
enjoy the bonding. This isn’t to say make it such a slow process that the chick
becomes stressed or overly anxious, but not treating it like an assembly line
job (to just get it over with) may be nicer for both of you.
As the chick gets older and begins eating a bit on their own, many owners like
to supplement their diet with spoon feedings of a thicker mix of the formula. At
first, this means holding the spoon to their beaks much in the same way as the
dropper or syringe was and letting the mixture just fall into their mouths. It’s
messy for sure, but pretty soon they’ll start bending their head down to take
the mixture off the spoon themselves.
It’s important to not offer formula for too long since it’s high in fat and can
cause health problems when fed to weaned birds. In sick, older and special
needs birds there are exceptions. It’s something that needs to at least be
discussed with an avian professional.
| For more about hand feeding click here |
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| A real seed junkie? Try sprouting the seeds first. Click Here How to convert from seeds to pellets ---- Click here ---- |
| The Girls |
| Perches |